Water Waves

Living on an Island in the middle of the ocean, it is easy to assume that we have all seen waves.  While that ay be true, not everyone completely understands the way waves work.  Wave speed and size is reliant on the wind that is present at the time.  The more wind, the more energy is put into the ocean thus creating waves. 

When a wave reaches the shore or reef, it often breaks creating somewhat of a barrel.  This is due to the depth of the water.  When the water gets shallower, the top of the wave continues to travel at the same speed.  This will cause the top of the wave to continue moving at the same speed.  This will cause a wave to break creating a barrel.